How many pavers do I need?

1. The paver formula

The formula to calculate how many pavers you need has three steps:

Step 1 — Raw count = area (ft²) ÷ paver area (ft²)
Step 2 — Multiply by (1 + waste fraction), e.g. × 1.10 for 10%
Step 3 — Round up to the next whole paver

The ceiling (round up) comes last — after adding waste — because the waste fraction is fractional and you cannot buy a fraction of a paver. Rounding up too early, before multiplying by (1 + waste), can give a slightly different count.

Worked example — a 10 × 10 ft patio, 4 × 8 inch brick pavers, 10% waste:

• Area = 10 × 10 = 100 ft²
• Paver area = (4 ÷ 12) × (8 ÷ 12) = 2/9 ft² (0.2222 ft²)
• Raw count = 100 ÷ 0.2222 = 450.0
• × 1.10 (10% waste) = 495.0 → round up to 495 pavers

2. How to measure your area

Accurate dimensions are the foundation of an accurate order. For a simple rectangular or square patio, measure the length and width at their longest points and multiply them together. Always measure the finished paved area — not the base footprint if it extends slightly beyond the edging, and not any surrounding planting beds or borders you are not paving.

For L-shaped or irregular areas, break the space into two or more rectangles, calculate the area of each, and add them together. For curves and organic shapes, a rough rectangle that encloses the whole area — then subtract any clearly un-paved corners — is a practical approach. Add extra to the waste allowance (15–20%) to cover the additional cuts.

Include the full area under any permanent structures like outdoor kitchens or fixed planters, because those sections still need pavers even if they are not visible. Leave out removable features like portable furniture and portable fire pits.

3. Paver sizes and how many you get per ft²

Coverage depends entirely on the paver size. Smaller pavers mean more pavers per ft² — useful for tight curves because each cut removes less material. Larger pavers lay faster and give a clean, contemporary look, but each cut is more wasteful on a diagonal or curve.

These figures use the nominal paver face dimensions — they do not include joint width. For standard 3/8" joints the difference is small and is covered by the 10% waste allowance.

4. The waste allowance explained

The waste allowance covers two things: cut pavers (every edge of the area requires partial pieces to fill the gap) and breakage (cutting is imprecise and some pieces crack). The right percentage depends on how complex the job is:

• 10% — straight/running bond lay on a rectangular area. The minimum for any paved job. Even a perfect rectangle needs some edge cuts.
• 15% — diagonal or herringbone pattern on a rectangular area. Setting pavers at 45° means every edge cut is angled and longer, wasting more material per cut.
• 15–20% — curves, circles, or irregular outlines. The more curved or irregular the border, the more cuts — and the more cuts, the more waste. Use 15% for gentle curves, 20% for tight curves or complex organic shapes.

One rule applies in every case: order the waste in the same batch. Paver colours and textures vary slightly from batch to batch, and natural stone can vary between individual packs. If you run short and return to the supplier three months later, the new stock may not match what you already laid.

5. Reference table — common patio sizes

Figures include a 10% waste allowance. For diagonal patterns or curved areas, add an extra 5–10% to these numbers.

For a precise figure with your exact dimensions, use the paver calculator.

6. Laying patterns and their effect on waste

The pattern you choose affects how much cutting you do — and therefore how much material you waste.

Running bond (brick bond). The most common and most efficient pattern. Pavers are laid in rows with joints offset by half a paver length. Edge cuts are simple rectangular pieces — half a paver — and each cut generates a usable leftover for the opposite edge. Add 10% waste.

Stacked bond (grid pattern). All joints run straight through both directions. Visually clean, but structurally weaker (less interlock). Waste is similar to running bond — 10% is sufficient for a rectangular area.

Herringbone. Pavers are set at 90° to each other in a zig-zag pattern. Herringbone provides excellent interlock and is often specified for driveways. The 45° angle cuts at the border mean each edge cut is an angled triangle — the leftover is rarely reusable, and you lose more material per cut. Add 15% waste.

Diagonal herringbone. The whole pattern is rotated 45° to the boundary. Visually striking, but every border requires an angled cut. Add 15–20% waste, more for non-rectangular areas.

Basket weave. Pairs of pavers are rotated 90° in alternating groups, creating a woven appearance. Waste is similar to running bond (10%) for rectangular areas because most cuts are still at 90°.

Random or irregular patterns. Popular for natural stone and flagging. Because the pieces are not modular, the count calculation is less precise — the supplier will usually quote by area (m² or ft²) rather than by piece count. The waste allowance depends on the shape variety and how tightly you can pack them, but 15–20% is a sensible starting point.

7. Ordering tips

Once you have a count, a few practical steps help ensure the job goes smoothly:

Order from the same batch. Ask the supplier for the batch or shade reference number and confirm all packs come from the same production run. This matters most for clay pavers and natural stone, where colour variation is inherent to the material.

Check the pack size and round up. Suppliers typically sell pavers by the pack (sometimes called a crate or pack), not individually. Divide your order quantity by the number per pack and round up to the next whole pack. Buying one extra pack is cheaper than an emergency order later.

Keep the offcuts. Once the job is done, store any unbroken cut pieces and even a few intact pavers somewhere dry. If one gets chipped or cracked five years later, you have a matching replacement — from the same batch.

Verify dimensions in-hand before cutting. Nominal sizes sometimes differ slightly from actual size — manufacturers may have a built-in joint allowance that reduces the face dimension by a few millimetres. Check one paver with a tape measure before entering dimensions into the calculator.

Common questions

How many pavers do I need for a 10 × 10 patio?

For a 100 ft² patio: 4" × 8" brick pavers (4.5 per ft²) → 495 pavers with 10% waste; 6" × 6" pavers (4 per ft²) → 440; 12" × 12" pavers (1 per ft²) → 110. Enter your exact patio size and paver size into the calculator for a precise count.

How do I calculate how many pavers I need?

Divide the total area (ft²) by the area of one paver (ft²), multiply by (1 + waste fraction), then round up to the next whole number. For example: 100 ft² ÷ 0.2222 ft² (4 × 8 in paver) = 450, × 1.10 = 495.0, round up = 495 pavers. The paver calculator above does all of this automatically.

How many pavers are in a square foot?

It depends on paver size. Standard 4" × 8" brick pavers: 4.5 per ft². 6" × 6" pavers: 4 per ft². 6" × 9" pavers: 2.67 per ft². 12" × 12" pavers: 1 per ft². 12" × 24" pavers: 0.5 per ft².

How much extra should I order for paver waste?

Add 10% for a standard straight-lay pattern. Add 15% for diagonal or herringbone layouts, and 15–20% for irregular shapes or curves. Order the extra upfront — sourcing matching pavers later can be difficult if the batch has sold out.

Do I need to account for joint gaps when ordering pavers?

The paver count calculation uses the nominal paver size (the face of the paver itself), not the joint width. For standard 3/8" (10 mm) joints the difference is small and falls comfortably within the 10% waste allowance. Only increase waste further if your joints are unusually wide (over 20 mm).