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How much turf do I need?

Measure the lawn as length × width to get the area, add about 5% for waste, then buy that many square metres of turf — or divide by your piece size to get a count. A 30 × 40 ft lawn is 1,200 ft², which comes to about 1,260 ft² of turf with waste — roughly 140 square yards, or about 3 pallets.

Prefer to skip the arithmetic? Use the turf calculator → Enter the lawn dimensions, pick a piece or roll size and set the waste percentage, and it returns the area to buy, the square yards, the number of pieces and how many pallets to order, in feet or metres.

1. The formula, in plain English

Working out turf is an area problem. You are covering a flat patch of ground with flat pieces, so the only things that matter are how much ground there is and how much ground one piece covers. The area of a rectangle is its length times its width. Divide that area by the area of a single piece, slab or roll and you have the number of pieces — before any allowance for the bits you trim off and discard at the edges.

The one twist is waste. Turf is laid in strips and trimmed to fit, so along every straight edge, curve, bed or path a piece gets cut, and the offcut is often the wrong shape to use elsewhere. That is why every estimate adds a small waste percentage on top of the bare area before dividing. The whole method is area × (1 + waste) ÷ piece area, rounded up — which is exactly what the turf calculator does, including the unit conversion if you measured in metres rather than feet.

2. Measuring the area step by step

Start with two numbers: the length and the width of the lawn. Take the worked example of a yard 30 ft long and 40 ft wide. The area is 30 × 40 = 1,200 ft². Add a 5% waste allowance and you are buying about 1,260 ft² of turf. Because turf is also sold by the square yard (9 ft²), that is 1,260 ÷ 9 ≈ 140 square yards. The same lawn in metric is 9 × 12 = 108 m²; add 5% and you are buying about 113 m².

Real lawns are rarely a perfect rectangle. If yours is L-shaped or wraps around the house, split it into rectangles, work out each one and add them together. For a circular or curved area, measure the longest length and width of the patch it sits in and treat it as a rectangle — the extra you buy becomes part of your waste margin. Always subtract large permanent features like a patio, a driveway or a pool, but leave small beds and borders in; the offcuts around them rarely save you a piece and the spare is cheap insurance against running short.

3. How turf is sold: pieces, rolls and pallets

Turf is priced by area, but it arrives in different units depending on where you are and how big the job is. Here is the coverage of the common units, with how many it takes to cover 1,000 ft² before waste:

UnitTypical sizeCovers (ft²)Covers (m²)Per 1,000 ft²
Slab16 × 24 in2.670.25375
Roll (NA)2 × 5 ft100.93100
Roll (UK/AU/NZ)610 × 1640 mm10.81.0093
Square yard3 × 3 ft90.84112
Pallet (typical)varies≈450≈42≈3

The “per 1,000 ft²” column is before waste — add your allowance on top. Two things vary by grower and are worth checking: the exact piece or roll size, and the coverage of a full pallet. The pallet figure of about 450 ft² is a common average, but pallets in the field run anywhere from roughly 400 to 500 ft². Use the number your supplier quotes, because that is what you divide your lawn area by to get the pallet count.

4. Waste, curves and how much to actually buy

Waste is smaller for turf than for a rigid material like tile, because a strip of turf can be trimmed with a knife to follow almost any line and a long offcut can sometimes be laid further along. For a simple rectangular lawn, 5% is usually plenty. The figure climbs when the edges get complicated: a lawn with sweeping curves, several garden beds, a winding path or trees to cut around can lose closer to 10%, because each curved cut leaves a triangular or crescent offcut that does not fit anywhere else.

Whatever allowance you choose, round the final number up — to whole pieces, and then up again to whole pallets, since you cannot buy part of a pallet. It is better to have a few spare pieces than to be one short, because turf is perishable: a piece left over can patch a thin spot, but a piece you have to wait two days for will have started to yellow before it ever touches soil. The calculator lets you dial the waste percentage up or down and re-runs instantly, so you can see the effect of a curvy layout before you order.

5. Timing, delivery and laying

Turf is a living product, which makes timing part of the estimate. Order it to arrive the day you plan to lay it, not before — once it is stacked on a pallet it begins to heat and yellow within a day or two, especially in summer. Prepare the ground first: clear the old lawn and weeds, level and lightly firm the soil, and rake it to a fine tilth so the turf makes full contact and roots quickly. If you are topping up or improving the soil first, the gravel and topsoil calculator works out the volume of material to bring in by the same area method.

Lay the pieces in a brick-bond pattern with the joints staggered and pushed tight together, and stagger the rows so the short seams do not line up. Trim the edges with a knife or a half-moon edger, water it in thoroughly the moment a section is down, and keep it damp for the first couple of weeks while it roots. The amount you order only has to be right once; getting it laid quickly and watered is what turns the right quantity into a lawn that takes.

6. Fitting turf into the wider job

A turforder is one line in a landscaping plan, and the same area method sizes the rest of it. The soil or topsoil you spread first is a volume — area times depth — and the edging, paths and beds you cut around all change the lawn's shape and therefore its area. Estimate each material once, with a sensible waste margin, and the whole job is costed before you load the car.

Browse the other estimating tools on the landscaping hub and across the site — from gravel and concrete to the unit converter for switching between feet, yards and metres — and you will order close to right the first time, which is the whole point of working it out before you dig.

Common questions

How do you calculate how much turf you need?
Measure the lawn as length × width to get the area, add about 5% for waste, then either buy that many square feet (or square metres) of turf, or divide by the piece size to get a count. A 30 × 40 ft lawn is 1,200 ft²; with a 5% allowance that is about 1,260 ft², roughly 140 square yards or about 3 pallets. In metric a 9 × 12 m lawn is 108 m², about 113 m² with waste, or roughly 114 one-square-metre rolls.
How many pallets of turf do I need?
Divide the area you are buying — the lawn area plus your waste allowance — by the area one pallet covers, then round up. A pallet typically covers about 450 ft² (around 50 square yards or 42 m²), so a 1,260 ft² order is about 3 pallets. Coverage varies by grower and piece size, so confirm the figure before you order.
How much does a pallet of turf cover?
A full pallet usually covers about 450 ft² — roughly 50 square yards or about 42 square metres — though it commonly ranges from 400 to 500 ft² depending on the grower and how the pieces are cut. That coverage figure is the number you divide your lawn area by, so always use the one your supplier quotes.
How much extra turf should I order for waste?
About 5% for a simple rectangular lawn, where the only cuts are along straight edges. Step up to around 10% for a lawn with curves, garden beds, paths or trees, because each curved or angled cut leaves an offcut you usually cannot reuse. Round the final figure up to whole pieces and whole pallets — you cannot buy part of a pallet.

Reference & education only. Not professional, engineering, or code-compliance advice. Estimates are based on published model codes; local amendments and your Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) govern. Always verify against the current adopted code and a licensed professional before doing work.

Last reviewed 2026-06.

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